Category — Merchant Type

Andrew Jefford takes over the Radio 4 Food Programme on Sunday 27 July 2008 with a look at the English Sparking Wine business. He presents on radio as well as he writes - informative, inquisitive and entertaining - his book The New France: A Complete Guide to Contemporary French Wine (Mitchell Beazley Wine Guides) provided a great insight into the way in which France and french winemakers are developing and improving.

There is little doubt that English Sparkling wine is enjoying a big boost in sales as quality improves and can seriously challenge wines from Champagne.

Andrew Jefford investigates the growing popularity and quality of English sparkling wine and finds out how it matches up to its French counterpart - Champagne and if there’s any truth in the rumours that the French are buying up English chalky downland on which to plant their own vineyards.

He and Suzy Atkin blind taste 4 English sparkling wines and one from Champagne, and whilst the Champagne still wins, the margin is not huge, The runner up and best English sparkling wine was the Ridgeview Grosvenor Blanc de Blancs 2001 - available from South Down Cellars in Hurstpierpoint in Sussex (£21.95) - shop and online.

Suzy Atkin makes a very valid point that whilst many consumers will use Champagne as a benchmark, there are in essence a wide variety of Champagne and Sparkling Wine styles, some of which appeal to some palates and not others. France’s Alsace and the Loire Valley produce some excellent sparkling wine, as does the New World - all slightly different in style. Whilst English sparkling wines are seldom cheap, they are consistently well-made and surrounded by less hype and snobbishness than the French fizz.

The programme is repeated live on BBC Radio 4 on Monday 28 July 2008 at 16.00 or is available online on the Listen Again section of the BBC website for 7 days.

At UKWOL we always welcome and applaud merchants who try something new or interesting and manage to break away from the often bland brands which bombard many shelves. So full marks to LeBonVin, which despite their French sounding name are offering wines from Tunisia and the Lebanon. Its easy to forget that many Mediterranean countries have been growing vines ad making wines for centuries - and whilst in earlier times they may have been made solely for local consumption (or for the invading troops) - good winemakers can now produce good wines in such potentially hot, dry climates by employing modern winemaking techniques.

Lebabon has been recognised for some time, the best known being Serge Hochar’s Chateau Musar in the Bekaa Valley - although probably known best for the feat of producing a wine in the midst of the bullets and mortars which can be a feature of that corner of the Middle East. However, the wines do get decent reviews.

But Tunisia is a completely unknown quantity for most of us. Although many winemakers in the south of France have their origins in north Africa and brought their winemaking skills and traditions with them.

LeBon Vin offers both red (Cabernet, Syrah and Merlot blend) from Chateau Elissa in theMornag Valley and a Chardonnay from Domaine Clipea.

Well situated on the most fertile lands, the quality of the Tunisian wines is rich in alcohol content, without excess of acidity, and soft, with the character of new wines. Today, Tunisian wine continues to boast the high repute that the sun, soil and time-honored Tunisian traditions have conferred on it.

LeBonVin also offers a wide range of wines from more traditional wine regions - and adds a wine from Mexico and a Rum from Venezuela - certainly different!

Le Bon Vin Ltd, 340 Brightside Lane ,Sheffield S9 2SB

Tim Atkin in the Observer (20 July 2008) takes a bit of a swipe at the new owners of Oddbins, and bemoans the way the wine merchant has developed in recent years. Certainly it is not quite as good as it was in its heyday when even as a small competitor wine merchant, I could recommend Oddbins with little hesitation - an interesting range, keen prices and particularly knowledgeable and enthusiastic staff who never disappointed.

OK so nowadays it has lost some of its quirkiness and originality and is a bit more like the rest of the national wine merchant chains - a tad more formulaic and with a narrower range. The staff still seem helpful though (at least in my local branches) and it still feels more like a wine merchants than a convenience store! And they do have some good wines:-

Tim highlights:

I liked the soft, grassy, smoothly textured 2007 Saumur, Réserve des Vignerons (£6.95, 12%) and the modern style, sensitively oaked, sturdy yet polished 2004 Château de Crouseilles, Madiran Premium (£11.99, 14%), made from Tannat and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Interesting because these are both wine styles which are usually difficult to get right, and at these price points have to be worth a try! See www.oddbins.co.uk

Bordeaux Index specialises in trading in the fine wine end of the market, a rarified zone which few of us get a chance to explore. The nearest I have reached was a tasting of some top St Emilion Grand Cru vintages which was unforgettable (and unaffordable!)

Wine enthusiasts sometimes look a little askance at wine investors - savouring the monetary value of the wine rather than the delights of it as a drink - although there is probably an element of envy in that. I have known several customers with impressive and expensive cellars who do get at least as much pleasure from drinking the odd bottle, as they do from the investment angle (and from lovingly admiring the rows of bottles in their cellar). But lets not forget that the value of any particular bottle rests in large measure on how the wine tastes - judged by fine palates who can assess how the wine will develop in the bottle over decades. Hence Bordeaux Index will be incorporating Michael Shuster’s Wine School, which brings together these complementary aspects of the extraordinary liquids contained in fine wine bottles.

Bordeaux Index is delighted to announce that from September 2008, Michael Schuster will be moving his famous wine school to our offices in Hatton Garden. Michael has helped to design the specialist tasting facilities on the top floor of our new building, where his school will be run from….. .Bordeaux Index prides itself on an unstuffy approach to fine wine selection and investment, demystifying the wine buying process for its clients and continuing to deliver expert advice in a straightforward way.

Michael Shuster’s book Essential Winetasting: The Complete Practical Winetasting Course (Mitchell Beazley Drink)is based on his courses, won all three major British wine book awards for the Best Drink Book 2000: The Andre Simon, Glenfiddich and the Prix du Champagne Lanson awards.

For more information on Bordeaux Index and Michael Shusters Wine School - see www.bordeauxindex.com

Just to put things into context, here’s a few facts and figues from Bordeaux Index:-

Our most popular wine for investment in 2008: Mouton Rothschild 1982 (£11,000 per case of 12 in bond)

Our most expensive bottle of wine: 1990 La Romanée-Conti - DRC; £8,000,in bond

Our most expensive bottle of champagne: 1995 Krug Clos D’Ambonnay -£1,995, in bond

The wine region to watch in 2008: Champagne

Busiest time of year for wine market: Spring/Autumn

Biggest annual spend for a client: £2million plus

Liquid Assets: Uncorking Profits in Today’s Global Wine Market

Cadman Fine Wines has two new exciting releases timed just right for the summer.

Firstly a Pouilly Fumé from Tinel-Blondelet (a cracker, exhibiting super aromas of gun smoke backed up by moreish citrussy flavours. Quite simply, Loire sauvignon at it’s best. The mouthwatering 2006 vintage is drinking absolutely beautifully right now.)
And from the much heralded Domaine Fondreche (in the Cotes de Ventoux, Provence) things just keep getting better and better. “Well known for its production of great value spicy reds, we are now delighted to be able to offer a wonderful little gem of a rosé: the l’Instant, 2007 - offering delightful strawberries and cream aromas with a little spice and minerality adding interest - a classic, vibrant southern French Rose”
“Fondreche…a source of sensational wines that still sell for incredibly fair prices…Shrewd consumers should have been stocking up on these wines for a number of years as they represent terrific values.” Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate

The choice is yours, but at these sizzling summer prices, with savings of up to £24 per case off the Pouilly-Fumé , it really would be a shame to miss out on either of these gems…

For more info see Cadman Fine Wines
Domaine de Fondreche
Domaine Tinel-Blondelet

A difficult time to launch a new wine business, especially as I note that the energetic Andrew Chapman at www.surf4wine.co.uk is not currently trading. But if you can offer something different that coincides with consumer trends, then it can be very successful - and Will Shepherd’s new wine website www.willswine.com may just have got it right in asserting that there is too much Australian Chardonnay and cheap French Cabernet Sauvignon (?) available, and offering something a little different.

Will’s Wine sells wines from lesser know regions of France and Italy, as well as Hungary, with plans to sell wine from Slovenia and Uruguay in the near future. Their wines are made from grapes including Tanat, Petit and Gros Manseng, Cot, Olaszrizling, Cabernet Franc and Manzoni.

Will’s Wine believe that for just a few pounds more, these wines are much more enjoyable than most supermarket offerings. We are promoting something different and more fun!

The list is a bit embryonic at the moment with new arrivals planned from Australia, Uruguay and Slovenia to add to the initial selection of Italy, Hungary and France.

www.willswine.com

Another online wine (or rather drinks) merchant - with an amusing strapline of “Drinks on the Mouse” offers an interesting mix of alcoholic beverages (including wine, cocktails, beers and spirits) plus drinks accessories and a lot of information. There is also a video diary of English winemaker, Simon Coulshaw at his Domaine des Trinites in the French Languedoc - his wines (Faugeres AC, Coteaux du Languedoc AC and a Viognier Vin de Pays d’Oc) are available to purchase on www.thedrinkshop.com

This is a great site for anyone who is looking for something alcoholic and wants to learn how to mix that extra special cocktail or buy spirits and stock up with the best known brand names and highest quality, specialty distillers around the world. Every spirit and cocktail mixer you can think of is here with a very simple and intuitive website that the Drink Shop has created.

Zelas wines are offering a free open-door tasting of low-sulphur wines from France and Spain on Saturday 19 July 2008 at Wine of Course in London N6.

What do we mean by natural wine? A natural wine is a wine made without adjustments of acidity and micro-oxygenation in small quantities from had-picked organically grown. If sulphur dioxide is added, it will be only in very small quantities. Most natural wines are made without the addition of sulphur dioxide at any point. Natural wines are more suitable for people who suffer from allergic and intolerant reactions to wine - asthma, migraine, respiratory or skin disorders. etc.

A red natural wine contains no more than 10 mg/l total sulphur and 25 mg/l total sulphur, if white. Low sulphite wine, low sulfite, low sulphur dioxide.

There is an evident trend towards organic wines throughout Europe, especially with increasing EU legislation, and in response to consumer demand. My approach has always been to be a little wary of buying wines just because they are “organic” - I still search out good wines, and if they happen to be “organic” then that is a bonus.

Interestingly sulphur dioxide is generally regarded as “natural” products, and even organic production allows its use as a preservative and disinfectant. Because of its affinity for oxygen it is good at preventing oxidation, and it kills off wild yeasts and ensures that fermentation stops when the winemaker determines. Virtually all winemakers will use sulphur dioxide, but increasingly winemakers are trying to ensure that all such interventions are kept to a minimum, especially as some consumers can be quite sensitive to traces of SO₂ in wine. Whilst Suphur dioxide is probably one cause of headaches after drinking wine, I suspect that tannins and other constituents (especially in red wine) are also guilty - so I suspect that just because a wine is low-sulphur you should not assume that you can drink it with impunity. Reactions to wine can be very individual - I know of people who react badly to Pinot Noir or Gewurztraminer, but can happily imbibe a heavy Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Rioja!

It should prove an interesting tasting and it would be great if it demonstrates that good. big, substantial wines can be made with low sulhur dioxide.

For more info see www.zelas.co.uk

The wines of the Italian island of Sardinia are less well-known in the UK, so for a top opportunity to taste some of these wines you should book in for a Newcastle-Upon-Tyne tasting hosted by specialist merchants Italy Abroad:-

Italyabroad.com brings you the best wine and food Sardinia can offer in one of the best Italian restaurants in Newcastle.
Menu
On arrival: Vermentino di Sardegna
Starter: Filieri Rosato Cannonau Rosato with Antipasto sardo or Fregala cozze e gamberi
Main: Cannonau Vigna di Isalle with Gnocchi alla sarda or Spezzatino agnello piu’ contorno
To finish; Glass of Grappa di Cannoanu aged
The tasting will be held at Sabatini restaurant on the quayside on the 22nd of July starting at 7.00 pm. Places are limited to 25.

Italy Abroad is based in the North East, and looks to be both informative, knowledgeable and entertaining - everything you might want from an Italian specialist in both food and wine - olive oil, antipasti and the rest. Certainly they meet my criteria for a good merchant - offering something a little different with passion and enthusiasm!! There is tons of good information e.g. who has heard of the Lagrein grape - “The Lagrein, a grape widely planted in Trentino and Alto Adige in the north east of Italy, produces tannic, soft wines with real character and they age well. The grape is also used to produce elegant and fresh rose wines.” With a blog, newsletter and tastings this has to be a must visit site for Italianophobes!

For more info see www.italyabroad.com

Unit 6, Stanfield Business Park, Addison Street, Sunderland SR2 8SZ
Tel/fax 0191 565 4884
E-Mail: info@italyabroad.com

The wine trade is reporting a big increase in the demand for rose (pink) wines.And this is not just for light summery wines or in response to a few good weeks of weather and a peak in picnics.
Rose wines have generally been misunderstood - they are not “compromise” wines for those undecided between red and white; neither are they blends of red and white wines!
Rose wines are generally wines made from red wine grapes which are either pressed only lightly or left in contact with the skins for only a brief period, The skins and pips etc are the source of colour and tannins, and hence rose wines are lighter in colour and tannin.
So, grapes as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Pinot Noir can make excellent rose wines, full of character, flavour and structure. For example a good rose can be a great match for lamb - not reserved for fish or poultry.

Majestic Wine is running a summer promotion on rose wines from as lttle as £3.79 a bottle for the Argentinian Terra Brisa, a blend of Syrah and Malbec - “A deep pink, fruit driven rosé with aromas of fresh strawberries and cherries. The palate reveals plenty of juicy summer berry fruits with a crisp and elegant finish. This is an ideal summer apéritif. “

Just right for stocking up in the run-up to Christmas, the Wokingham Wine Fair takes place on 6-7 December 2008 - a few miles east of Reading and the M4 in Berkshire.:

The Wokingham Wine Fair brings together members of the ASDW, the Association of Small Direct Wine-Merchants which was formed by a group of British independent small wine merchants directly selling to the general public via mail order and the internet. There are currently around 20 members each of whom is passionate and knowledgeable about wine. We offer customers a specifically selected, interesting and often exclusive range of wines at very reasonable prices. The British public are well served by supermarkets at the lower end (sub £5) of the price range but it is becoming increasingly more difficult to find quality wines as big brand names dominate high street shops and supermarkets.

For more info see www.nickdobsonwines.co.uk

Provence wines tend to be associated with light summery rose wines, which really does do not justice to a whole range of seriously good reds from the region. The wines of Les Baux de Provence AC can be big beasts with a streak of elegance based predominantly on Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault with a trace of Mourvedre and Cabernet Sauvignon - see Mas Sainte Berthe for one of the best producers. Bandol is another excpetion to the rule - producing robust reds mainly from the Mourvedre grape, But head over to Leon Stolarski Fine Wines and you’ll find the wines of Domaine de Trevallon which lies just to the west of Les Baux de Provence. Here they were one of the first vineyards to challenge the established regime which declared that you could not use Bordeaux grape varietals such as Cabernets and Merlots and still be entitled to full Appellation Controllee status. But in the quest to make a great wine Eloi Durrbach spurned the local wine authorities and created what is now unofficially known as the First Growth of Provence!

…with the addition of a range of wines from the legendary Eloi Durrbach at Domaine de Trévallon in Provence - arguably the greatest wine estate in southern France. We have Trévallon reds (a blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon) from no less than 5 different vintages - 1999, 2000, 2001, 2004 and 2005, together with the extremely rare 2006 white (a blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Chardonnay). Only 4,000 bottles of the white are made annually.

These are not cheap wines, but certainly worth a try to see what can be achieved by a top winemaker using a unique blend of grapes and terroir! And full marks to Leon Stolarski for taking the decision to stock them - just what small independent merchants can do best!

Leon Stolarski Fine Wines Tel/fax; 00 44 (0)115 952 9387

Rare and Organic is dedicated to the search for quality food and wine, locating small organic and natural producers ‘At Source’. Imported direct from the producer, the selected wines are limited production, high quality versions of Italian classic and unusual variietes.

They also stock some sumptuous olive oils, cheeses, pastas and pesto – all of which you can enjoy at monthly tasting evenings in Tunbridge Wells; monthly Slow Food Market at St Nicholas’ in Bristol; and weekly at London’s Kings Road.

Rare and Organic will be at the Bristol Wine and Food Fair 11-13 July 2008

www.rareandorganic.co.uk

3 Clanricade Gardens Tunbridge Wells Kent TN1 1HQ

Tel:01892 511848

Badminton Wines sources wines from small-scale producers from around the world, whose main focus is on producing wines of quality and character at a fair price. They list over 100 wines and deliver free-of-charge to the Bristol area. Cases can be mixed. Wine tastings can be arranged at your home or in their own Tasting Room.” www.badmintonwines.co.uk

Being confident of their selection of wines they offer a variety of ways of trying before you buy e.g. tasting evenings at home with your friends or tasting sessions in their own Tasting Room. Badminton wines will be at the Bristol Wine & Food Fair 11–13 July 2008 and at the Taste of Bath event 3–6 July 2008.

Their list has a wide coverage with some excellent Italian selections including a Prunetto Barbaresco from Piedmont, a top Californian Old Vine Zinfandel from Seghesio

Badminton Wines,The Street, Acton Turville Badminton GL9 1HH

Tel:01454 219091

Now I had always thought of the people at Joseph Barnes Wines in Saffron Walden as pretty serious, but enthusiastic types when it comes to wine innovation. But, as it is not April 1st, I am assuming that an article in their latest newsletter is factual! As I am one who tends to feel quite offended if anyone dares to dilute a glass of wine even with a jig of water, this idea sounds ghastly - but who knows maybe I’m just too traditional to even consider descrating wine in this way!

Disbelievingly, we decided to find out for ourselves and as a result here is the JBW guide to Wine Slushes:
The most appealing slushes contain a dry, yet fruity white or red wine - Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc or Merlot will do. Add a combination of fresh fruit juice and frozen fruit puree of your choice and blend until smooth. Freeze until the desired consistency is achieved. (The alcohol in the wine will prevent the mixture from freezing solid). Serve in colorful acrylic tumblers or Margarita glasses.
But do they taste any good? Well, we hate to say it, but wine slushes are indeed refreshing and wouldn’t be out of place at a BBQ or summer party. However, don’t expect us to revisit the subject any time soon.

Maybe thinking of it as a cocktail may make it easier to swallow.

There are more seriously good bits in the Joseph Barnes Wines newsletter (June 2008) such as an offer on one of my favourite reds - Pic St Loup AC in the Languedoc - plus Italian Prosecco (now there’s a proper summer wine drink), ideas for Fathers Day and a recipe.

Joseph Barnes Wines