In praise of Cahors Wine

by former winemerchant August 15, 2008

How refreshing to see a respected wine critic overturning a long-held prejudice - in this case Anthony Rose in the Independent (2 Aug 2008) :-

Was it only yesterday I was on holiday in Cahors in south-west France’s Lot Valley? So it seems, but it was actually 10 years ago that I took myself there with a case of Châteauneuf-du-Pape just to be on the safe side. The local plonk might be OK for washing down everyday fare, but what if my friends and I fancied something decent to drink? Earlier this summer, I returned to the scene of my criminal lack of confidence to attend something rather grandiosely called the Journées Internationales du Malbec. It was three convivial days of discussion, tasting, wining and dining and I could scarcely believe the progress made by Cahors in the space of a decade.

Now I admit I am partial to the Malbec wines of Cahors in the Lot département of South West France - and I also concede that in the past I have tasted some fairly rustic examples which could best be described as “an acquired taste”. But despite being French and often arrogant, the winemakers of Cahors often now produce wines which whilst obviously “big and tannic” as befits their tradition, can now offer smooth, rounded fruitiness to the palate - which to my mind means that the best of them can easily challenge other classic wines.
In many ways the New World has sparked this change of attitude - the emergence of big, ripe, generous Malbecs from South America has proved a major challenge. The New World wines tend to have buckets of upfront fruit, and a silky texture. I like them, but for my taste they lack some of the depth, intensity and complexity which the best Cahors can offer. “Horses for courses” it may be - but the sensuous pleasure of a mature. plummy oaked Cahors can be hard to beat for serious tasting.

Amongst others Anthony Rose recommends Domaine de Gaudou, Chateau Lagrezette , but my favourite is probably the Clos Triguedina (Waitrose).

For more on the wines of Cahors see www.frenchduck.co.uk