Overheating wines!

by former winemerchant August 13, 2008

Madfish Shiraz photo by wine_scribbler Joanna Simon in the Times (10 Aug 08) makes an impassioned plea to avoid the British tendancy to serve red wines too warm:-

The old rule that red wines should be served at room temperature is one of the most treacherous pieces of wine lore, unless you happen to like your rooms at a penitential 16C-18C. A few big, young, tannic reds, especially those designed to be aged, may taste rounder and more supple at 18C-20C, but the vast majority begin to lose their freshness and clarity of flavour at these temperatures. They will still be drinkable, but not as good as they could be or as the producer intended.

This idea arose from pre-central heating days and cold cellars, when reds were often needed a bit of acclimatisation before drinking. And as with most decent wines one of the keys is to avoid dramatic temperature change. It has probably become one of the myths about wine - i.e. that all serious wine drinkers indulge in a respectful ceremonial which also includes decanting and allowing the wine to breathe.

But visit any vineyard and see what temperature the winemaker serves his samples for tasting - he is, after all, trying to present his wines at their best. This is especially true of most everyday wines (the great majority of wines are drunk young), and wines which today emphasise fruit character above the elements of “structure”, “depth” or mineral/vegetable.

Whilst a light, fruity Beaujolais can be served “chilled”, most reds will benefit from being served at the sort of temperature of the empty spare bedroom.

The issue of wine temperature has also been raised recently with a survey which showed that many shelves in supermarkets and chains were too hot or too close to bright light or vibration - all factors which can damage or at least change the wine. However, as most supermarket stock turns over quite quickly this may not be a severe problem.

Wine is an organic product, and betwixt winemaker and drinker there are numerous forces which can change the character and taste of the wine, so that what you get to taste may not be quite as the winemaker intended - sometimes this works to your advantage, other times not. I recall one winemaker in the Loire Valley who refused to ship wine in mid-summer, and she was probably right. Once loaded onto a lorry (uninsulated and with tarpaulin side curtains) the journey to the wine merchant can take several days (one consignment took 8 days from South West France) and may involve other collections and waiting for ferry or customs clearance - potentially in blazing sunshine and high temperatures.

The obverse is that white wines are often served too cold - straight from the fridge - which whilst refreshing, does not always allow the scents and flavours of the wine to reveal themselves.

Experiment a little next time you open a bottle and see how the wine changes.